Jewels buying guide

Gold
The basic colour of gold is yellow, its natural colour.

Yellow gold
24 karats yellow gold is pure gold. We call it « fine gold ». Fine gold is soft, unsuitable for the manufacturing of jewels.
18 karats yellow gold or 750/000 i.e 75 % of fine gold is the standard of French quality.

* The karat grade indicates the amount of pure gold in the alloy.

White or grey gold
18 karats white or grey gold: two expressions which indicate the same metal. It is an alloy of 75 % pure gold (thus yellow), and 25 % other white metals (for example silver). The colour of this alloy is a light yellow white. The white colour is obtained by rhodium plating.

White or grey gold rhodium plated
White or grey gold rhodium plated is white gold covered with a layer of rhodium, more or less thick depending on the qualities, to give it its white colour. This rhodium plating, especially if it is too thin, wears out over time. Light yellow gold can reappear with time, especially for rings which  are exposed to the friction of  the fingers and the acids of the sweat.

Palladium white or grey gold
To avoid white gold rhodium plated to turn yellow as it wears out over time, we recommend for rings an alloy of white gold and palladium (metal from the same group than platinum) which gives gold a subtle shade of grey. It is also harder and more resistant. Grey gold with palladium is more expensive than classic grey gold. It is often rhodium plated. For high wear items like rings and bracelets we recommend this alloy.

Gold of other colours
By varying the components of the alloy with 25 % of other metals than pure gold (75 %), one can obtain different shades of gold. The addition of copper for example creates shades of pink or red gold. Each jeweller has his own specific alloys which can be slightly different from the standards.

Platinum
Platinum is white (white grey), its natural colour. Platinum used by jewellers is 95 % pure (950/1000 Platinum). It is a denser metal than gold. The same jewel will weight more if it is made in platinum than in gold. Platinum is much more expensive than gold and that is the reason why palladium white gold is often preferred to platinum. It also looks quite the same.

Metal finishes
Except the choice of metals, colours, combinations of colours (bicoloured or multicoloured jewels), one can choose different finishes: gold and platinum are generally polished to obtain a brilliant finishing touch. But it can also be matt, brushed, hammered...

High-polished jewellery is by far the most common and gives the metal the highly reflective and shiny look. Matt finish reduces the shine and is commonly used to accentuate the brilliance of the gemstone.

For advices on the choice of the metal, do not hesitate to contact us by e-mail at info@i-diamants.com or directly by telephone at 0 800 400 820 (free call from France) or at +33 (0)4 93 18 73 58 (from abroad).

The difference between an industrially made standard jewel and a hand made jewel.

Long term resistant frames
To reduce costs, the frames of the mass production standard jewels are light and even hollow.

We advise you to compare the weight of gold from different frames. For example, a classic solitaire ring with claws weights approximately 2-3 grams of gold when it comes from an industrial production compared to 4-5 grams when it is hand made in a traditionnal way. Too light and hollow rings deform inevitably over the time.

The finishing touch
Frames coming from an industrial production are often badly finished. The simplest way to notice it is to look at the internal parts of the jewel. We often say that jewels are as suits, it is necessary to turn them and look them from the inside to see the quality of the finishing touch.

To come back to the example of the classic solitaire ring with claws, it is made in industrial production as one single piece what makes the access to certain parts difficult when putting the finishing touch. In traditional production, the band and the setting are made separately as two pieces of a puzzle to optimize the finishing touch of each part before assembling them.

Let us also mention that frames out of industrial production have a cold look. Edges for example are often too sharp. The goldsmith gives sweeter forms to the jewels, pushes further the decisive finishing touch.

The price
Industrial production looks cheaper but it can be eventually more expensive: at worst you risk to loose the diamond, at best you will have to change the frame once it is used or deformed. A quality jewel lasts and as a diamond it will enter your family patrimony for ever.

Classic diamond jewellery, customized diamond jewels, or designer signed jewellery?

You can find three types of jewels you can find on i-joaillerie, i-diamants’ s very own French style jewellery boutique.

Classic diamond jewellery
Classic, chic, never out of fashion. Their look is both sober and contemporary. The elegance and purity of the forms were made by jewellers to release the light of the diamond in an ideal way.

We offer a range of diamond engagement rings, diamond wedding rings, earrings and pendants.

Customized diamond jewellery
The expression « customized diamond jewellery » is often used in an inappropriated way. Indeed, customized jewellery consists very often in a so called "customized" assembly of already existing parts : choice of a diamond in a catalogue of diamonds, choice of a band for the ring among a catalogue of preproduced bands, a choice of a settings among a catalogue of preproduced settings. According to us, customized jewellery is then reduced to a puzzle game.

Customized diamond jewellery takes all its meaning when you get in touch with a real jewellery designer and order him a jewel in the same way as you could order a painting to a painter. You can exchange ideas with him/her and take all the benefits from his/her know-how and creativity.

Designer signed diamond jewellery
Designer signed diamond jewellery refers to the jewellery designers’ own collection. On i-joaillerie, we show different models designed by the jewellery designers we are used to work with.

To be put in touch with a jewellery designer, do not hesitate to contact us by e-mail at info@i-diamants.com or call at 0 800 400 820 (free from France) or at 00 33 4 93 18 73 58.